Athens

The caryatids - women-shaped columns - of the Acropolis.

The caryatids - women-shaped columns - of the Acropolis.

 

Stay

 

Periscope (22 Haritos St; yeshotels.gr; room from €149) Award-winning minimalist hotel in Kolonaki district - check out the slide show of the city on the ceilings. 

Eat

 

Kalderimi (Plateia Agion Theodoron, on the corner with Skouleniou, Monastiraki; mains from €5-8) Freshly cooked, authentic Greek cuisine. In a city full of tavernas this is one of my favourites. 

See

 

Benaki Museum (Koumbari 1; benaki.gr; €9) Outstanding private collection from Bronze Age to WWII in what I think is the best museum in the whole country - there are two other branches, the Pireos Annexe (contemporary art) and the Museum of Islamic Art in Kerameikos; a combined ticket for all three costs €20 and is valid for 3 months. 

Drink

 

Gazarte (Voutadon 32-34, Gazi; gazarte.gr) arts complex with a cinema, incredible views of the Acropolis, the odd live music gig and even a restaurant. Not bad for a bar!

Amsterdam

Canals and bikes...where else but Amsterdam? All that's missing is a tourist smoking a joint. 

Canals and bikes...where else but Amsterdam? All that's missing is a tourist smoking a joint. 

Stay

 

Between Art & Kitsch B&B (Ruysdaelkade 75-2; between-art-and-kitsch.com; single/double from €80/90) Three individually decorated rooms at the top of a narrow staircase.

Eat

 

La Falote (Roelof Hartstraat 26 IV; lafalote.nl; from €25) Traditional Dutch cuisine like calves livers and stewed fish with beets, lathered in mustard sauce. It's cash only but great value in this slightly upmarket neighbourhood.

See

 

Anne Frank House (Prinsengracht 267; annefrank.org; €9) Unmissable and poignant, especially the posters on the wall and the video of Ann's dad talking about her years after the war - but book online to avoid the longish queues, or go early in the morning, just as it's opening up. 

Avoid

Heineken Experience (heinkenexperience.com) Your €18 is better spent in a bar